Hikes by Highways: Stops on the Way to Yellowstone - Episode 10

Wildflowers in the Bighorns
Indian Paintbrush (red), Fireweed (purple) and Yarrow (white)

Episode 9 - listen to the episode hereYou can also subscribe by searching for Wyoming My 307 wherever you listen to podcasts. 

When it comes to outdoor recreation, Wyoming has an embarrassment of riches! Whether you’re a resident or visitor, it’s impossible to get to all of it. In this episode I explored Hikes by Highways with Wyoming Outdoor Recreation Pathfinder Bruce Scigliano. We explored two routes to Yellowstone, and hikes right off the highways that would take us there. Bruce brings us hikes along the route from the Black Hills to Yellowstone. I brought us up from Colorado to Yellowstone. We picked hikes that were as close as possible to the highway so you can stop and stretch your legs along that classic road-trip to Wyoming’s wonder - Yellowstone National Park! This episode’s Wyoming Wildlife is guaranteed to be seen along both of those routes.

Check out the State Of Wyoming Outdoor Recreation Wonder Map where you can select various forms of outdoor recreation and it will show you where to find them on the Wyoming map. Bruce also mentions the Black and Yellow Route” which the state of Wyoming has mapped out on this webpage.

You can follow along mine and Bruce's suggestions. Carla’s Map starts on I-25 at the Colorado state line. This is a 9.5 hour drive, so break it up however you want, stop and stretch your legs, have a picnic, or stay the night along the way!
  • Cheyenne Botanic Gardens and Park is a little over 4 miles from the crossroads of i-25 and i-80, and 146 mi / 2 hr 11 mins to the next stop, Ayers Natural Bridge Park
  • Ayres Natural Bridge Park - outside of Douglas, about 5 miles off I-25, and is 44 mi / mins to Platte River Trails in Casper
  • Platte River Trails, is 153 miles / 3.5 hours to Shell Falls
  • Shell Falls Interpretive Site includes great walkways over the falls. It’s 21 miles, about 30 minutes to Red Gulch
  • Red Gulch Dinosaur Tracksite is 5 miles off the road, and then 88 miles / 1hr 35 mins to Four Bears Trailhead in Wapiti
  • Four Bear Trailhead, in the Wapiti Valley, is only 33 miles/35 minutes from the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park
Bruce’s Map starts on I-90 at the South Dakota state line. This is about a 10 hour drive, so again, make whatever stop(s) work for your trip.
Below are additional details Bruce wanted us to know about some of the trails!

Serenity Trail: A two-mile loop just a very short drive off of U.S. Highway 87, 4 miles north of Newcastle.

The Serenity Trail is a great choice to stretch your legs and is conveniently located only four miles north of Newcastle. Tailhead is on the road immediately (50') north of the entrance to the Wyoming Conservation Camp.

This trail is a loop and can be traveled either direction and is part of the Serenity Trail: 4-Mile Loop. Hiking clockwise; the trail drops through a few draws but has steady and easy climbs to its highest point. Hiking through the pine forest, you'll come to the Serenity Rocks. There are benches here, making a good place to stop and enjoy the scenery. The narrow track continues down the ridge. The junction with the Serenity Trail: 4-Mile Loop is a left turn before you drop in the canyon as the trail goes along the wall.

The trail has moderate rock to go over and around, providing some challenge with a steep drop off the side. After the dry creek crossing, it's an uphill pitch. There are some large rock steps to help you climb. Once at the top, take a moment to enjoy the view and catch your breath. It is a short, winding track back to the trailhead. The trail bed is packed sandy soil. It drains well after rain, but there may be loose patches. Rocks are periodic throughout the trail. This is a multi-use parcel. Livestock may be present. Be aware of hunting seasons. Trail is located near a minimum-security prison (you may hear the PA system). No restrooms. Cell coverage is good along most if not all of the trail.

Tongue River Canyon - A spectacular hike just four miles from U.S. Highway 14, near Dayton.

From Highway 14, turn onto County Road 92, just north of where the highway crosses Tongue River. Go straight. The road enters the Amsden Wildlife Habitat unit, ending at the trailhead. The Tongue River Trail is noted for sheer limestone walls, the rushing Tongue River and several natural arches. As a bonus, there is a cave to explore, although entry to the cave requires a permit from the U.S. Forest service. Most folks do this trail as a short in/out, going no more than the quarter mile to the bridge at the Tongue River Cave Trail and then turning back. This short section is definitely worth it, but there's more to offer for the committed.

From the parking lot, you start out surrounded by huge limestone walls. The first two and a half miles of the trail runs along the river. The river then cuts south, entering a steep canyon. The trail, however, avoids the canyon, keeping to higher ground north of the river. After another mile, you'll cross Horse Creek. From here you'll power uphill through some patchy forest and then cruise on some relatively flat terrain. At around eight miles, you'll cross the north fork of the Tongue River and then enter the forest. The forest opens up into a large open field. The next dirt road you meet, turn left and ignore all the turn-offs until you arrive out at Highway 14.

Sibley Lake Nordic Ski trails - A well-marked, kid-friendly hike through the forest.

Although these trails are used for Nordic skiing in the Winter, they are delightful in the other three seasons. To access the trailhead, take Hwy 14 to the Sibley Lake Recreation area (about 21 miles west of Dayton). Turn into the recreation area and proceed straight about .4 of a mile to the picnic ground and boat ramp. The trail begins on the south side of the lake near the restrooms.

The trail follows Prune Creek to several junctions. Hikers may choose their routes based on trail maps at each of the junctions. Almost all of the trails are in shade although one might encounter marshy, boggy areas. Follow the maps to get to a warming hut and outhouse. The hut has a wood stove and is a pleasant place to relax.

Tie Flume (Copper Creek) - A short, kid-friendly hike just minutes from Highway 14, in the Bighorn Mountains.

Follow U.S. 14 south from Burgess Junction nearly five miles. Turn left (East) onto Forest Service Road 26. Travel about three miles, to a “Y”, go straight toward Tie Flume Campground. Go past the campground and cross the South Fork of the Tongue River on a bridge. The trailhead is on the east side of the river.

This is an easy walking trail that runs along the river for about two miles, crossing the South Tongue River and Copper Creek along the way. Although water conditions may make fording the river or creek unadvisable, the walk is well worth it. One will experience rushing rapids, placid pools and opportunities to view wildlife. Along the way, there are remnants of a tie flume that once transported hand-hewed railroad ties off the mountain.

Sherd Lake - At just about 2.4 miles from U.S. Highway 16, Sherd Lake trail makes a dandy Hike Near Highways.

Designated by Congress in 1984, the Cloud Peak Wilderness protects more than 189,000 acres, including Cloud Peak Glacier, the only active glacier remaining in the Bighorn Mountains. The Wilderness also protects the highest peaks in the Bighorn National Forest, including 13,167-foot Cloud Peak and 13,005-foot Black Tooth Mountain. The Sherd Lake Trail provides an easy way to experience the Cloud Peak Wilderness without an extended pack trip, for the wilderness boundary is reached in about eight-tenths of a mile and the lake itself is just 1.8 miles from the trailhead.

The hike to Sherd Lake begins from the Circle Park Trailhead in the Bighorn National Forest near Buffalo, Wyoming. To reach the trailhead from I-25 in Buffalo, drive 15.7 miles west on US Highway 16, also known as the Cloud Peak Skyway, to Circle Park Road, also known as Forest Service Road 20. Look for Circle Park Road on the right (West) side of the highway, about 1.2 miles past the YMCA of the Bighorns. Circle Park Road is an unpaved gravel road appropriate for passenger vehicles as long as one takes their time. After driving 2 miles you'll reach a fork in the road. Turn left onto Forest Service Road 384 and drive another half-mile to reach the trailhead.

From the parking lot, the hike begins in a fairly thick forest. Hikers will travel along the Sherd Lake Loop Trail (#046), sometimes referred to as the Circle Park Loop, which is a fairly popular route in the Bighorn National Forest. At roughly eight-tenths of a mile from the trailhead, hikers reach the Cloud Peak Wilderness boundary.

For the most part, the trail makes a steady moderate climb, while at times traveling over some fairly rugged terrain, including many small and large rocks strewn across the path. At 1.8 miles hikers arrive at the junction with Trail #095, as well as the northeastern shore of Sherd Lake. This lake is a great destination. Walking along the lake to the south, one may view 12,324-foot Bighorn Peak and 12,275-foot Darnton Peak rising above the trees on the opposite side of the lake. This is easy hike appropriate for the whole family.

For those wanting a longer hike, one may continue south, about six miles, to the junction of the South Fork Ponds Trail #095. A loop can be made back to Circle Park Trailhead via South Fork Ponds Trail #095.

Red Gulch Dinosaur Track Site - Red Gulch offers hiking opportunities just five miles south of U.S. Highway 14.

Imagine, if you will, walking along an ocean shoreline 167 million years ago. Dozens of dinosaurs are looking to pick up a bite of lunch from what washed up on shore at the last high tide. The sandy ground is soft, and the critter’s feet sink down in the thick ooze, leaving a clear footprint with every step they take. At the Red Gulch Dinosaur Track site, you can imagine, and see those footprints today. Red Gulch is the largest dinosaur track site in Wyoming and one of only a few worldwide from the Middle Jurassic Period (160 million to 180 million years old).

Until the tracks were documented in 1997, most scientists thought the entire Bighorn Basin and most of Wyoming was covered by an ancient ocean called the Sundance Sea. But the discovery at Red Gulch altered that view. The dinosaur tracks were clearly made just at the shoreline, not in deep ocean water, and there must have been large areas of dry land to support not only dinosaurs but other animals and plants. (Note: the discoverer in question was none other than Erik Kvale who was interviewed in Episode 7: The Language of Rocks).  

The limy mud that the dinosaurs were walking in probably felt similar to cement just starting to harden. The tracks were perfectly preserved when the mud hardened and was covered by more layers of ooze, and then by fine sand, filling the tracks and preserving their shape. Over the years, layer upon layer of sediment filled in over the top. Much later, erosion went to work and removed those layers, exposing the tracks that had been made all those millions of years ago.

At Red Gulch you’ll find hundreds of tracks, and the 40-acre site could contain thousands more. To add to your enjoyment there are interpretive signs, picnic tables, benches, trails, an upgraded access road and graveled parking for up to 15 cars and three buses.

To get there, travel by car, truck, motorhome or trusty horse, eight miles east of Greybull WY on US Highway 14. Turn south on the Red Gulch/Alkali National Back Country Byway turnoff. Head south about five miles. Red Gulch Dinosaur Track site…a swell place to imagine walking with dinosaurs.

Mosier Gulch - the Mosier Gulch Recreation Area, in the foothills of the Bighorn Mountains, is located 5 miles west of Buffalo, Wyoming, right along US Highway 16, the area has almost 900 acres of ponderosa pine-forested lands.

Mosier Gulch has a developed roadside picnic area complete with picnic tables, pedestal fire grates, and a vault toilet. In addition, the picnic area is a trailhead for the Clear Creek walking path which leads back to Buffalo. Another trail heads west, along Clear Creek, following the creek about 1.3 miles, to several ice caves. It is here that you have the option to climb to Grouse Mountain for a steep, strenuous hike before returning back to the picnic area. At an elevation between 5,500 and 6,800-feet, this area is also home to mule deer, eagles, and occasionally black bear and elk. This area is open for trout fishing with a Wyoming Game and Fish Department license.

Pronghorns

Learn some pronghorn facts and more about their migration, and check out the amazing photographs by Joe Riis
Thank you to Acoustic Atlas sound library for the pronghorn snort. Didn’t catch it? Hint: “the end”.  

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